Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
